Thoughts on the World’s Great Metropolises
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Meatless in Manhattan

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The Popeye Pizza from Co. in New York
Photo courtesy of Squire Fox


I've said it before: I am a big meat eater. Or, more accurately, I am a small person who eats a lot of meat. The concerns of vegetarians rarely enter my psyche—until recently. When a few out-of-towners came calling I suggested we have dinner at the brilliant Momofuku Ssam, one of David Chang's East Village joints. I was vaguely aware that one of our number didn't eat meat, but there's always something vegetarian on the menu, right?
 
Ssam does indeed have one fleshless option: Bread and butter. The butter was from Vermont, but it was still bread and butter. The stuff you usually get for free. It seemed churlish to order it, so we didn't. Jack said he'd get a slice later. Ouch.
 
My awareness of the vegetarian cause was piqued further when I read a review copy of Jonathan Safran Foer's Eating Animals, out in November. I loved Safran Foer's novel Extremely Loud and Incredibly Close; his latest is nonfiction, a passionate, unpreachy diatribe on factory farming that was inspired by the birth of his son. The author and his wife had flirted with vegetarianism for years—should they now go the whole hog and force their firstborn into it as well?
 
I knew a little about the gruesome conditions in which chickens are farmed but I didn’t know that 'bird brain' was a misnomer, that pigs are so intelligent they can play video games with their snouts, and that when you order a plate of sushi you're often responsible for the deaths of scores of fish as 'bycatch', including dolphins and seahorses. As for the ways in which all these animals meet their ends, well, suffice to say I found a new enthusiasm for fall vegetables the week I read it.
 
I’m not about to turn herbivore just yet (and, says Safran Foer, if you're going to eat any meat it should be beef, which is comparatively ethically farmed, so I can order burgers with a relatively clear conscience. Hurrah.) But I am planning on reducing my intake.

I’m allergic (in principle at least) to soy, and the idea of going to a vegetarian restaurant fills me with utter horror, especially if it's called Caravan of Dreams. So I've compiled a short list of favorite New York spots that have at least two decent veggie entrées, making them appropriate for meat and non-meat eaters alike. Let me know if you have any to add.

'Inoteca - because the truffled egg toast is one of NYC’s greatest dishes, and there are numerous salads and cheeses

Little Giant - they 'happily accommodate vegetarian requests' (don’t be put off by the menu on the Web site)

Locanda Verde - because I usually just order cicchetti and antipasti when I come here, and many are veg (the sheep's milk ricotta is To Die For) and there's a pasta dish for the ravenous

Boqueria - there are numerous tapas options, plus queso

Tamarind - if you're after veg Indian is a great option, and this is one of the best

Co. - and so is pizza. I love the Popeye.

4 Comments

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Mollie

Chef Michael Anthony is obsessed with veggies - and everything he cooks at Gramercy Tavern is amazing. Same with Peter Hoffman at Savoy. I could eat the falafel and babaganoush at Taim every day and be perfectly happy.

Finally they begin to see the light. With more top top blogs like this, we veggies may finally conquer the world.

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Jack THE hungry veggie

In your defense Kate the bread was very fine....and those pickles....

Great blog, but I have a small beef with your beef disclaimer: http://tinyurl.com/yc9r3rh

On the way home we stopped at Roberta's in Bushwick, you've probably been but I loved it.

x

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Bishop

Vegetarian options in NYC are pretty grim, I agree. It must have something to do with approaching food as a moral or political issue rather than just as food.

As with another commenter, I have my doubts about Foer's assessment of beef. "Comparatively" better when it comes to U.S. factory farming might not mean much.

But, god, veggie burgers are just so dreadful....

I like to get a spinach-red onion-artichoke pizza at Two Boots.

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About The Cityist

Kate Maxwell is a senior editor at Condé Nast Traveler. Born and bred in London, Kate moved to New York in 2007. As well as editing and writing various bits of the magazine Kate regularly talks travel on NBC’s Today show, and prances around the world presenting videos for cntraveler.com when the need arises. The rest of the time you’ll find her in Manhattan’s East Village, eating burgers.